Thursday, February 13, 2025

Goa, God, and My Exploration of Christianity in India

Written by Kass Ferm

14 February 2025

I'm bursting with anticipation! In just a few weeks, I'll embark on a two-week journey to India, a land that has been calling to me for ages. After a brief stint in Mumbai, near the historic Fort area (which I hear is too chaotic for my taste), I'll hop on a train south to Goa. I’ve heard the southern regions are much more suited for solo female travellers, with a reputation for kind locals and a generally safer atmosphere.

Fort in Mumbai

My Goa agenda is simple: beaches, cafes, and soaking in the laid-back vibe. And the food! Don't even get me started. After a month and a half in Vietnam, I intensely craved Indian cuisine. I know, it's almost sacrilegious to admit I got tired of Vietnamese food. Still, there's just something so comforting and soul-satisfying about Indian spices and flavours that I've been indulging in Indian meals almost daily. I plan to explore the Goan cafe scene and sample regional Goan cuisine. I'll be staying in hostels in Anjuna and Marjorem, known for being backpacker havens, so I'm looking forward to connecting with fellow travellers, swapping stories, and forging new friendships. Plus, I want to explore the areas of North Goa that are influenced by Portuguese culture. A blend of European and Indian cultures – it's an intriguing mix I can't wait to experience firsthand.

Anjuna Beach

As a Christian, I'm fascinated by how faith has spread and evolved across the globe. My recent travels through central Vietnam, with its surprising number of Christians despite the socialist government, sparked this interest even further. The legacy of French colonialism and other European and American presences is undeniable, and it shows how God's work can manifest in unexpected places.

This got me thinking about Christianity in India. I knew Goa, with its Portuguese history, would have a Christian presence, but I wanted to dig deeper. What is the history of Christianity in India? What forms does it take? And how does it interact with the other rich religious traditions of the country? I am eager to visit the many churches in Goa, and who knows, I might even meet some brothers and sisters in Christ with whom I can share my faith.

Basilica of Bom Jesus in Goa

My research led me down a rabbit hole of fascinating information, starting with the tradition that the Apostle Thomas himself travelled to India in the 1st century A.D. According to the Ecclesiastical History of Bishop Eusebius of Caesarea, a 4th-century text, Thomas "extended his apostolate into India, where he is recognized as the founder of the Church of the Syrian Malabar Christians or Christians of St. Thomas" (Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica). While concrete evidence is scarce, the tradition is old and persistent, with Syrian documents from the 3rd and 4th centuries attesting to his mission (Bussagli, 1952). Even The Acts of Thomas, a Syrian text, recounts his journey to India, interactions with King Gondopharnes, and eventual martyrdom (Bussagli, 1952). Though the historicity of these accounts is debatable, they provide context to the early Christian community in India (Chronicles of Malabar, 2012).

Interestingly, there was an early period of Christian influence during the reign of Gondopharnes, followed by a later period of persecution under King Mazdai (identified as Kushana Vasudeva) (Bussagli, 1952). It is fascinating that The Acts of Thomas even associates Gondopharnes with Kushana Vasudeva, describing him as "open to spiritual matters" (Bussagli, 1952). According to Bussagli (1952), these two strata of Christian influence contain a peaceful period during the reign of Gondopharnes and a period of persecution during the reign of Vasudeva, indicating two distinct periods of Christian influence in India.

St Thomas Christians in Kerala

This early church, now known as the Syro-Malabar rite, is still active today. Also known as St. Thomas Christians, this Eastern church is based in Kerala, India, and has over four million followers worldwide (svdvocations.org).

While the arrival of St. Thomas is just a theory, Hedlund (2017) argues for the plausibility of the Thomas tradition due to the "Indianness" of Kerala's Christian community. According to Hedlund (2017), "Kerala is identified as the birthplace of Indian Christianity, predating European influence, countering the idea that Christianity is a foreign import." This suggests the uniqueness of Kerala’s Christian community as evidence of its early origins.

I also learned that Kerala society allowed for the interpenetration of cultural codes, and Christians lived among Hindu and Jewish communities (Hedlund, 2017). The Syrian Christians integrated into the Hindu caste system as traders and landowners while maintaining their identities (Hedlund, 2017).

Later influences also shaped Christianity in India. The Portuguese, who arrived in the 16th century, brought Roman Catholicism, and their colonial presence significantly impacted the Christian landscape (Henn, 2014). The arrival of Lutheran Pietists from Halle University in 1706 marked the beginning of Protestant missions in India. The arrival of the Portuguese in India brought changes to the Thomas Christians, who resisted attempts to Latinize their church practices. However, tensions arose, and the Synod of Diamper (1599) led to a division in the Indian churches (Hedlund, 2017).


Ziegenbalg Depicted in Tamil Nadu

Missionaries like Bartholomäus Ziegenbalg and William Carey were pivotal in spreading Christianity. Ziegenbalg's mission impacted Indian culture by converting entire villages, establishing social institutions for the poor, and preserving ancient literature. Carey translated the Bible into numerous Indian languages, promoted vernacular instruction, and contributed to the education of girls (Hedlund, 2017). Even in the Serampore Mission, which focused on Bible translation, vernacular schools, and women’s education, the Christian community maintained high moral standards and was unlikely to engage in evangelism due to the Hindu majority (Hedlund, 2017).

In the more contemporary situation, tensions remain. According to an article by d'Avillez (2023) in The Pillar, Catholics in Goa are threatened by calls to wipe out the history of the Portuguese presence. There has been a growing Hindu nationalist rhetoric coming from the Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) that could hinder the harmony between Christians and Hindus in India. Despite this, "Christians and Hindus lived in unity and harmony in Goa for over 400 years; we have never had a fight between us," according to John Lobo, a local historian in Goa (d'Avillez, 2023).

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From the Apostle Thomas to modern-day tensions, it’s clear that Christianity in India is a rich and complex story. I am excited to witness how Christianity interacts with Hinduism and the overall culture, as well as the impact of British and Portuguese colonialism and government interactions with Christians in India.

My trip to Goa will be an incredible learning experience. I'm eager to meet people from all walks of life, to hear their stories, and to gain a deeper understanding of the multifaceted realities of life in India. I will also get to explore the different churches and what their members believe. The intersection of history, religion, and culture will be challenging and deeply enriching.

Se Cathedral in Old Goa

I'm grateful for this opportunity to explore a new corner of God’s creation. He has opened doors for me to travel, learn, and grow, and I trust He will guide me on this journey. As the saying goes, "Therefore do not worry about tomorrow, for tomorrow will worry about itself. Each day has enough trouble of its own" (Matthew 6:34). I'm stepping into this adventure with an open heart, ready to receive whatever lessons and blessings God has in store.

References

Bussagli, M. (1952). The Apostle St. Thomas and India. East and West, 3(2), 88–94. http://www.jstor.org/stable/29758006

Churches in India that are known for their beauty and grandeur From November 13, 2022, written by Anushka Goel https://www.lifestyleasia.com/ind/living/architecture/most-famous-churches-in-india-to-visit/

Chronicles of Malabar. (2012, February). The first visit of Thomas AD 30~44 (Indo-Parthian kingdom) - The truth behind the Legend. https://chroniclesofmalabar.blogspot.com/2012/02/first-visit-of-thomas-ad-2744-indo.html

d'Avillez, F. (2023, July 8). Catholics in Goa threatened by calls to ‘wipe out’ history of Portuguese presence. The Pillar. https://www.pillarcatholic.com/p/catholics-in-goa-threatened-by-calls

Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. St Thomas. https://www.britannica.com/biography/Saint-Thomas

Hedlund, R. E. (2017). Christianity Made in India: From Apostle Thomas to Mother Teresa. Augsburg Fortress.

Henn, A. (2014). Hindu-Catholic Encounters in Goa: Religion, Colonialism, and Modernity. Indiana University Press. http://www.jstor.org/stable/j.ctt16gz7v6

Lent looks different for Syro-Malabar Catholics. (n.d.). SVD Vocations. https://www.svdvocations.org/meet-our-missionaries/archives/lent-looks-different-syro-malabar-catholics

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