Tbilisi, a city where ancient history whispers from cobblestone streets and modern vibrancy pulses through its veins, has captivated me in countless ways. Yet, beyond the sulfur baths and the echoes of centuries past, I've discovered a more recent, equally compelling narrative: the evolution of its coffee culture. From what I imagine were more traditional, perhaps simpler ways of enjoying this beloved beverage, Tbilisi has blossomed into a haven for speciality coffee, a journey I've had the delightful pleasure of experiencing firsthand at cafes like Pulp and Okro Roasters.
Delving into the history of coffee in Georgia, it's clear that, like many nations, its introduction was intertwined with cultural exchange and trade. As Salome Dzandzava notes in her article for Radio Cafe, "In Georgia, as in many other countries, coffee became popular through cultural exchange and trade" (2024). Like wine cellars in Tbilisi proudly offer their exquisite local vintages, a growing number also feature high-quality coffee, recognizing its appeal to discerning palates (Dzandzava, 2024). This mirrors the historical trajectory of coffee in Europe, which, after arriving via Ottoman trade routes, transformed 17th-century coffee houses into vibrant hubs for intellectual discourse and social gatherings, ultimately contributing to its global spread (Dzandzava, 2024).
The Tbilisi I'm experiencing today feels a world away from a time when speciality coffee was a novelty. CoffeeLab opened in 2016 and was the first to introduce speciality roasting and cafes to the Georgian market (Baldinger, 2021). Founder Giorgi Aivazyan recounted the initial struggle in educating customers, many unfamiliar with the acidity and fruitiness characteristic of speciality Arabica beans (Baldinger, 2021). He even mentioned having an "instruction manual" for baristas to explain the nuances of each drink and how different this was from the more traditional coffee experiences Georgians were accustomed to (Baldinger, 2021). It's fascinating to think that less than a decade ago, the vibrant specialty coffee scene I'm now immersed in was just beginning to take root.
My own exploration of this evolving landscape has been nothing short of a delight. Stepping into cafes like Pulp and Okro Roasters, the air is thick with the aroma of freshly roasted beans, a far cry from the more grainy, sometimes bitter notes I've encountered in coffees from places like Turkey and North Africa. My palate, accustomed to the brighter, more acidic profiles standard in Western coffee culture, has been thoroughly impressed by the citrusy undertones and balanced acidity I’ve found in nearly every cup here. This starkly contrasts the incredibly strong, dark, and nutty Vietnamese coffee, which, while delicious in its own right, certainly affected my sleep cycle differently! Here in Tbilisi, I can happily indulge in three cups throughout the day while working on my university biology program, all without disrupting my sleep – a true testament to the quality and profile of the coffee.
The appreciation for these nuanced flavours is clearly growing in Tbilisi. Baldinger (2021) reports that the founder of Shavi Coffee believes that "Georgians have an amazing palette and cuisine that makes them appreciate quality products," which fuels his confidence in the burgeoning specialty coffee market. This resonates with my own observations. At Shavi Coffee, near the trendy Fabrika hostel where I'm staying, the dedication to quality is palpable. The friendly staff and the bright, airy atmosphere made it a perfect spot to work and savour a meticulously brewed cup.
Bambina Cafe
My journey continued to Stories (near Gudiashvili Square), Bambina (beside the Georgian National Museum), and Pulp. While each offered a unique vibe – from Stories' focused work environment to Bambina's cozy wine bar feel and Pulp's bustling, dog-friendly energy – the underlying appreciation for good coffee was evident. Even at Bambina, where the coffee might not have been the absolute highest quality, the welcoming atmosphere and reasonable prices made it a worthwhile experience. Pulp, however, truly stood out. Despite being packed, the black Americano I ordered was exceptional, bursting with bright, almost orange-like notes. It was a joy to witness the lively social scene unfolding around me, with friends sharing pastries and adorable dogs eagerly awaiting scraps. Finally, OKRO Roasters impressed me with its stylish décor, striking red espresso machine, and, most importantly, its delicious coffee served in a comforting ceramic mug. The fact that they even offered tikka masala on their menu added to the place's unique charm!
OKRO Roasters
This focus on quality and the desire to cater to evolving tastes are also reflected in the emergence of local companies like Meama. Meama is "Leading the way among large-scale producers," importing high-quality beans and promoting coffee capsules and machines for home brewing, aligning with European and American consumption trends (Baldinger, 2021). This indicates a broader shift towards valuing convenient yet quality coffee experiences.
However, the growth of the specialty coffee market isn't without its challenges. The average income in Georgia can limit the widespread adoption of specialty coffee, which tends to be more expensive for locals (Baldinger, 2021). This necessitates a delicate balance for coffee shop owners, who strive to make quality coffee accessible while also ensuring their businesses are sustainable.
Pulp
Interestingly, the recent geopolitical landscape has also played a role in Tbilisi's coffee scene. As noted in The Coffee Vine's article on Shavi Coffee (2024), "Especially after Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, many sophisticated Russians relocated to Georgia and brought with them their ideas and preferences, which included specialty coffee." While this influx has undoubtedly contributed to the demand for and growth of specialty coffee, it has also created social tensions( Kucera, 2023). In Batumi, a Black Sea town, the arrival of numerous Russian-owned businesses has led to concerns about the erosion of the Georgian language and culture (Kucera, 2023). While Tbilisi might present a slightly different picture, the sentiment of unease surrounding the increased Russian presence is palpable, as evidenced by my own experience at a restaurant where the waiter aggressively pushed a Russian menu before realizing I was American. Despite these complexities, the introduction of specialty coffee can be seen as a positive development, potentially creating jobs and attracting tourists who appreciate quality and unique experiences.
Shavi Coffee Near Fabrika
Shavi Coffee, in particular, embodies a forward-thinking approach, aiming to grow the specialty coffee market in Georgia, foster ethical relationships with farmers, and build meaningful connections with customers (The Coffee Vine, 2024). This commitment to ethical sourcing resonates with my experience learning about coffee production in Tanzania, where coffee bean farmers on the slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro are part of a National Tanzanian Coffee Board that ensures fair trade practices. Seeing this same dedication to quality and ethical sourcing in Tbilisi is truly inspiring.
My journey through Tbilisi's evolving coffee culture has been a fascinating blend of historical discovery and personal indulgence. With its rich history and resilient spirit, this city is now brewing a new story, one cup of meticulously crafted coffee at a time. From the initial skepticism surrounding acidity to the current bustling cafes filled with people genuinely appreciating the nuances of a well-made brew, Tbilisi's coffee scene is a testament to the growing global appreciation for quality and the dynamic spirit of this captivating city. I eagerly anticipate continuing my exploration and discovering even more hidden gems in Tbilisi's ever-evolving coffee landscape!
References
Baldinger, M. (2021, December 12). Georgia’s coffee market – small beans, big innovations. Investor.ge. https://www.investor.ge/2021/12/12/georgias-coffee-market-small-beans-big-innovations/
Dzandzava, S. (2024, June 20). Georgia's coffee history. RadioCafe.ge. https://radiocafe.ge/en/kofeynaya-istoriya-gruzii
Kucera, J. (2023, August 20). 'You Can't Even Speak Georgian In Georgia Anymore': Russian Businesses Roil Black Sea Resort. rferl.org. https://www.rferl.org/a/georgia-russian-businesses-black-sea-resort/32556083.html
The Coffee Vine. (2024, September 27). Shavi Coffee: A risk-taking roaster from Tbilisi. https://thecoffeevine.com/blog/shavi-coffee-a-risk-taking-roaster-from-tbilisi/
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