Why Yerevan is A Hidden Gem for Coffee Lovers and a City Steeped in History

I had absolutely no idea that stepping into the vibrant, modern cityscape of Yerevan would ignite such a passion within me for its coffee. It’s not just any coffee here; it's an experience, a revelation of quality, brightness, and the delightful acidity that makes my taste buds sing. Gone are the days of settling for the often lackluster, full-bodied yet somehow empty medium roasts I've encountered elsewhere, like in Goa, India, and Tbilisi, Georgia. Yerevan has spoiled me for anything less. And in just my first three days, I've already discovered the city's thriving specialty coffee scene, and let me tell you, each café has been a delightful discovery. The single-origin beans seem authentic, bursting with character, making the thought of returning to Georgia, despite its undeniable historical charm and slightly less expensive cost of living, a little less appealing.

Yerevan itself is a fascinating city, a unique blend of Soviet-era influences – keep an eye out for communist remnants on building facades around the main square – and a burgeoning modern spirit. Last night, I had the unexpected pleasure of attending a moving performance of Maquerade at the Armenian National Opera and Dance Theatre with a lovely German couple I met on a free walking tour. The ballet, a poignant tale of mistaken identity, loss, and regret, resonated with the bittersweet feeling of constant farewells that seems to accompany my travels. I constantly have to leave loved ones behind with each new border crossed. Yet, amidst this transient existence, the exceptional coffee here has been a true awakening, a bright spot that fuels my exploration of this intriguing city. Even the persistent Yerevan rain can't deter me from venturing out to uncover more of its cafe treasures. As I am in my final week of the semester, I have ample time to explore and find the amazing coffee shop culture here in Armenia. 

Coffee's Deep Roots in Armenia

My coffee obsession has deep historical roots in Armenia. Coffee's association with Armenians dates back to the 17th century, particularly within Western Armenian culture (Yerevan State University, 2024). Historical trade records reveal that Western Armenian merchants, alongside their Polish and Smyrna counterparts, actively participated in exporting coffee to the West, often alongside silk. Interestingly, Eastern Armenians were also familiar with coffee as early as the 17th century, a fact noted by the French traveler Jean Chardin during his visit to Yerevan. It's recounted that when Chardin fell ill, the local monks offered him coffee as a remedy (Yerevan State University, 2024). This anecdote resonates with the warm hospitality I've experienced in Yerevan. Despite language barriers, the genuine excitement of locals in welcoming international visitors is palpable. The lower tourism numbers, possibly due to understandable concerns about regional geopolitical tensions involving Russia, Turkey, and Azerbaijan, amplify this welcoming spirit. My walking tour guide even touched upon the complex dynamics and the underlying interest in Azerbaijan's oil reserves. While the region's conflicts create a lingering risk of broader conflict, as a tourist, I have personally felt safe in Yerevan (Hushcha, 2023).

Armenia actually has a unique connection to the very word "coffee" (Yerevan State University, 2024). In Alexandropol (now Gyumri), coffee was referred to as "gahve," a term originating from the Ethiopian region of Kaffa. However, it was the Armenians who coined their own word for coffee: "սուրճ" (pronounced "surtsh"). This linguistic distinction speaks to the beverage's integration into the Armenian lexicon and culture.

Armenian National Opera and Dance Theatre Orchestra Pit

Furthermore, the late 19th century saw the rise of "ghahvexanes" in Alexandropol, more than just coffee shops; they were vibrant gathering places for artisans and craftspeople to unwind and discuss their work (Yerevan State University, 2024). Artist G. Brutyan even depicted a café specifically for "ashoughs," traditional Armenian folk singers and poets, where these performers would entertain the artisans. This historical intertwining of coffee culture and the arts deeply resonates with my experience attending the breathtaking ballet by the Armenian National Opera and Dance Theatre. The dedication and artistry on display were a testament to the enduring importance of performance in Armenian culture.

These cafés weren't just about leisure and art; they also became hubs for intellectual and even political discourse. In Alexandropol, a café named "Tasht" served as a meeting point for thinkers like Jivani and Avetik Isahakyan to discuss the liberation of their land (Yerevan State University, 2024). Later, during the early Soviet era, the "Tourist Cafe" in the 1920s and 30s became another significant gathering place for intellectuals to debate liberal ideas and the challenges of the newly formed Soviet Union. Sadly, this intellectual ferment drew the attention of the State Security Committee, leading to the tragic repression and closure of many Yerevan cafés in 1937 (Yerevan State University, 2024). This stark reminder of the political climate underscores the cultural significance these spaces held, to the extent that their existence was perceived as a potential threat. However, the tradition was resilient. With the arrival of Armenian repatriates in 1946, the cherished practice of drinking coffee was revived (Yerevan State University, 2024).

Even personal anecdotes underscore the cultural significance of coffee. The renowned Armenian poet Hovhannes Tumanyan, during his work with Armenian Genocide survivors, reportedly found solace and even a medicinal benefit against infectious diseases in drinking coffee with brandy (Yerevan State University, 2024). This intriguing connection to brandy, a significant part of Armenian culture, with brands like ARARAT, makes me wonder about the prevalence and flavors of Armenian coffee cocktails – a treat I would explore myself if I drank alcohol. 

Dalan Art Gallery and Restaurant 

The history of coffee in Armenia extends beyond its consumption within the country (Partamian, 2017). Armenian merchants played a crucial role in introducing coffee to Europe, with individuals like Hovhanness Diodato opening Vienna's first coffee shop in 1685 and Pascal establishing the first coffee houses in Paris, London, Venice, and Holland even earlier. This pioneering spirit underscores the significant historical contribution of Armenians to global coffee culture.

My Yerevan Coffee Journey

AfroLab Roastery Machine and Coffee Beans 

My own Yerevan coffee adventure, though brief so far, has been nothing short of inspiring. Arriving late and needing a caffeine fix before my free walking tour, I stumbled upon AfroLab Roastery. The atmosphere was instantly captivating – walls adorned with iconic jazz musicians, a magnificent roasting machine taking center stage, and shelves displaying their own beautifully packaged, fragrant beans. The music and the friendly, uniformly dressed staff gave off a cool, Brooklyn-esque vibe, but with a distinctly warm Armenian charm. The pink-washed walls and lush palm trees added an unexpected earthy touch, almost transporting me to the vibrant coffee regions of Africa. And the coffee itself? Bright, perfectly acidic, and a much-needed jolt of pure joy after a string of mediocre brews. The staff were incredibly welcoming, a sentiment I've found to be consistently true here.

Following the walking tour, which unveiled hidden gems like the Dalan Art Gallery and Restaurant and the stunning Cascade, I found myself drawn to Lumen Coffee. Tucked away down an unassuming alley, this café exudes a modern minimalist aesthetic with its clean white walls and touches of greenery. Upstairs, however, a dimly lit space with a curated record collection offered a cozy retreat. What I particularly loved was the unhurried atmosphere; like in Vietnam, enjoying coffee late into the evening seems perfectly normal here. The barista was incredibly kind, even asking about my preference for body or acidity – a coffee lover's dream! The brew I had was, again, fantastic.

Lumen Coffee 

The next day, in need of a quiet haven to complete my ichthyology studies, I spent several productive hours at Hayk Coffee. Located on the lively Saryan Street, known for its cool wine bars and coffee shops, Hayk offered a more understated vibe with interesting photography adorning its walls. While not the coziest, the neighborhood's charm ensured I'd be back in the area to try other cafes nearby.

Hayk Coffee 

As I type this, I'm comfortably (albeit with my jacket serving as a cushion on a less-than-ergonomic chair) sitting in Ground Zero Specialty Coffee. True to its name, the coffee is indeed of specialty-grade quality. The atmosphere is more geared towards digital nomads, with its minimalist white walls and the hum of laptops. A surprising Chinese influence is evident in the lantern decorations, and the international food menu contributes to the slightly eclectic ambiance. It's not my personal aesthetic, but the excellent coffee and the focused atmosphere have made it a surprisingly productive spot. 

Ground Zero Specialty Coffee 

The rain in Yerevan continues to fall, but my spirit remains undeterred, fueled by the exceptional coffee I've encountered. My time here is drawing to a close, and I know I'll deeply miss this burgeoning café culture. So, I implore you, fellow coffee enthusiasts and travelers, don't let any perceived geopolitical tensions deter you. Yerevan is a city brimming with history, warmth, and a genuine passion for specialty coffee. Come and experience it before the world potentially shifts in ways that make such travel more challenging, due to the region's geopolitical tensions. Trust me, your taste buds – and your soul – will thank you for it.

References

Hushcha, M. (2023, October 12). Turkish Foreign Policy in the South Caucasus: What Does Baku’s Takeover of Nagorno-Karabakh Mean for Ankara? International Institute for Peace. https://www.iipvienna.com/new-blog/2023/10/12/turkish-foreign-policy-in-the-south-caucasus-what-does-bakus-takeover-of-nagorno-karabakh-mean-for-ankara

Partamian, N. (2017, February 27). Coffee: A Cup of History. Armenian National Committee of America. https://anca.org/press-release/coffee-a-cup-of-history/

Saroyan, T. (2024). Ashoughs and poets in the 17th–19th Eastern Armenian and Iranian café houses. Urbis et Orbis, 4(2), 217-226. https://doi.org/10.34680/urbis-2024-4(2)-217-226

Yerevan State University. (2024, June 19). Coffee, the most sought-after beverage, at the core of new study. https://www.ysu.am/en/news/62223